Double Expedition in the Karakoram – Alix von Melle & Luis Stitzinger on New Heights
Goal 1: First Ascent of Urdok Kangri II (7,082 m)
The German extreme mountaineering couple Alix von Melle (46) and Luis Stitzinger (49) from Füssen in Bavaria are preparing for their next expedition adventure.
The first major objective of this year’s tour is the first ascent of the 7,000-meter peak Urdok Kangri II (7,082 m) – located in the Pakistani Karakoram Range, amidst the so-called “Shining Mountains.”
The expedition is organized by the expedition operator Amical alpin, with Luis Stitzinger acting as expedition leader. The route will take the experienced duo into unexplored territory featuring breathtaking scenery.
Goal 2: Ascent of the “Hidden Peak” – Gasherbrum I (8,068 m)
Afterward, von Melle and Stitzinger plan to climb the nearby Gasherbrum I, also known as the “Hidden Peak.” At 8,068 meters, it is the third-highest peak in Pakistan and the 11th-highest mountain on Earth.
The Hidden Peak is located on the border between Pakistan and China, in the heart of the Karakoram. It earned its nickname from British explorer William Martin Conway, who first mapped the region in 1882 and never saw the summit during his expedition.
Climbing in Alpine Style – No Porters, Oxygen, or Fixed Ropes
The ascent is planned via the recently reopened south route – in pure alpine style:
No high-altitude porters
No bottled oxygen
No pre-installed fixed ropes
Using skis – as far as the conditions allow
This demanding style of mountaineering requires the highest level of physical fitness, self-reliance, and high-altitude experience.
Expedition Route & Timeline
The 47-day expedition takes place from June 13 to July 29, leading the team via Islamabad and Skardu to the remote Baltoro region, near the Chinese border in the province of Xinjiang.
The goal is to explore and summit both peaks within this window – a dual objective that presents major logistical and physical challenges.
Seven 8,000-meter Summits Already Achieved
The couple ranks among the most successful German high-altitude climbers. They have already summited seven of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks without bottled oxygen:
- Cho Oyu
- Gasherbrum II
- Nanga Parbat
- Dhaulagiri
- Broad Peak
- Shishapangma
- Manaslu
